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What you missed: overhauled trade deals, Shulman steps down from Vogue, automation in fashion

Iris van Herpen's SS17 couture show / what you missed - overhauled trade deals, Shulman steps down from Vogue, automation in fashion
Iris van Herpen’s SS17 couture show

Donald Trump’s first week as President has been quite something… for this industry, it’s the overhaul on trade deals particularly to keep an eye on, as outlined by Bloomberg below. Elsewhere, the past seven days have been all about British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman stepping down, through to lots more in the way of technical detail from the couture shows in Paris.

Also worth reading is the BoF’s piece on automation, a view on what the store of the future looks like now we have Amazon Go, and the unveiling of the first dress made with graphene.


TOP STORIES
  • Nike and Ford caught in crossfire of Trump’s trade overhaul [Bloomberg]
  • British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman steps down [Vogue]
  • How automation is reshaping fashion [BoF]
  • Iris van Herpen uses visual trickery for latest couture collection [Dezeen]
  • How the retail industry can prepare for the Fourth Industrial Revolution [Medium]

BUSINESS
  • As Trump pushes for U.S. manufacturing, ‘Made in America’ is losing its lustre in the fashion world [LA Times]
  • Warby Parker to open 25 stores this year, co-CEO says [WSJ]
  • Why Macy’s is closing even profitable stores [Fool]

SOCIAL MEDIA
  • How 5 UK brands are using Instagram Stories [Digiday]
  • Dior serialises Bella Hadid-fronted beauty content to retain youth interest [Luxury Daily]

MARKETING
  • H&M launches latest recycling campaign with Bring It On film [The Industry]
  • New Balance aims for inspiration with time capsule initiative [Retail Dive]
  • Cosmopolitan launches influencer network with River Island as first client [Campaign]

RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
  • What does the store of the future look like now we have Amazon Go? [Guardian]
  • The demise of the department store experience [AdAge]
  • Shoppers now expect personalisation to extend to the store: study [Internet Retailing]
  • Get closer to the single customer view – by connecting online and offline data [The Drum]
  • E-commerce: Next day delivery is the “new norm” [The Industry]
  • Amazon puts virtual Dash buttons on its homepage [Techcrunch]

TECHNOLOGY
  • CFDA collaborates with Accenture on tech integration initiative [WWD]
  • First dress made with graphene unveiled in the UK [Guardian]
  • Is this sewing robot the future of fashion? [Fast Company]
  • Starbucks Japan partners with fashion brand for contactless payments [BrandChannel]

START-UPS
  • Vestiaire Collective raises $62 million in pursuit of online luxury resale world domination [Fashionista]
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Soundwaves and technical mastery inspire latest Iris van Herpen couture collection

Iris van Herpen Seijaku2
Iris van Herpen’s Seijaku collection

Iris van Herpen took to couture week in Paris yesterday with another collection of technical masterpieces, this time focused on the study of cymatics; the visualisation of soundwaves into geometric patterns.

The Dutch designer’s intricate Seijaku line (which is Japanese for tranquillity), included dresses made from thousands of hand-blown glass bubbles and Swarovski water drop crystals covered in transparent silicon. The aim with the former was to create a “bioluminescent prism around the body”, the designer said.

Iris van Herpen  Seijaku1
Iris van Herpen’s Seijaku collection

There was also Japanese organza woven from polymer threads five times thinner than human hair, and plissé organza arranged in the designer’s typical sculptural structures to portray the intended notion of sound formations.

Van Herpen, who recently won the grand prize of the European Commission for Innovation in Technology, Industry and Society Stimulated by the Arts, accompanied her presentation with the sounds of Japanese musician Kazuya Nagaya’s Zen bowls.

See all of the looks in the gallery below:

Iris van Herpen  Seijaku4
Iris van Herpen’s Seijaku collection

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data digital snippets e-commerce social media Startups technology

Digital snippets: Iris van Herpen on designing the future, TAG Heuer’s luxury smart watch, Alibaba’s Singles Day smashes records

Here’s a round-up of the latest stories to know about surrounding all things fashion and tech…

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  • Iris van Herpen’s astonishing designs don’t look like ‘clothes.’ They look like the future (as pictured) [The Washington Post]
  • TAG Heuer Connected: the first ‘legitimate’ smart watch? [Wired]
  • How Alibaba turned an obscure, made-up Chinese holiday into a $14.3 billion shopping extravaganza that’s bigger than Black Friday [Business Insider]
  • Dior breaks its e-commerce ban [WWD]
  • REI’s Reddit experience shows brands need to be ready to take the tough questions [AdWeek]
  • Canada Goose debuts first global campaign [AdAge]
  • High-tech Sephora flash boutique in Paris has a robot greeter [Brandchannel]
  • Farfetch tries to reach a little further [Bloomberg]
  • The Minkoffs want to disrupt the dictatorship in fashion with digital innovation [Fast Company]
  • Fashion platform Zalando wants to be Europe’s top tech company [Wired]
  • Macy’s CEO defends role of stores in e-commerce era [Fortune]
  • Apple’s Angela Ahrendts on where the company is taking retail next [Fast Company]
  • Natalie Massenet’s Imaginary Ventures proves she’s ready for next venture after exit from Net-a-Porter [Independent]
  • How Revolve Clothing uses data to create a global brand [Digiday]
  • Adam Selman, Rihanna’s favourite designer, enters the wearables war with Mastercard [NY Times]
  • As luxury brands embrace data, will they use it like a butler or a stalker [AdWeek]
  • Retail’s best Snapchat campaigns [L2]
  • Tel Aviv’s booming tech start-up community is expanding its focus to fashion [Fashionista]
  • Singapore’s postal service provider is developing a futuristic shopping mall to house online retailers [TechCrunch]
  • “People don’t buy stuff in actual stores” – the future of retail, as explained by Gen Z [Quartz]
  • Wary of the next ‘Warby Parker’ [TechCrunch]
  • Refinery29, Dazed and i-D battle for millennials [BoF]
  • Essena O’Neill quits Instagram, rewrites her self-promoting history [The Guardian]
Categories
digital snippets e-commerce film mobile social media Startups technology

Digital snippets: shoplifters at Harvey Nichols, Iris van Herpen on fashion and science, Rakuten’s virtual fit start-up

A round-up of the latest stories to know about surrounding all things fashion and tech…

harveynichols

  • Harvey Nichols features genuine CCTV shoplifting footage in new Rewards ad (as pictured) [Creative Review]
  • Iris van Herpen’s science fashion [BoF]
  • Rakuten buys virtual fitting room start-up Fits.Me in a fashion commerce play [TechCrunch]
  • Why an “Amazon for high fashion” is a really bad idea [HighSnobiety]
  • Amazon Fashion, playing the long game [BoF]
  • ShopStyle figured out how to monetise Snapchat [Racked]
  • Why it took Zappos Labs five tries to admit failure [Fast Company]
  • Stamp your in-store Snapchats with custom Lilly Pulitzer prints [Digiday]
  • Crocs bets big on interactive Twitter videos with ‘Funway Runway’ effort [AdWeek]
  • Online jewellery start-up Bauble Bar to open retail stores [Forbes]
  • Matthew Williamson to sell part of pre-fall collection exclusively on Lyst [Fashionista]
  • Net-a-porter partners with Tom Ford on e-commerce exclusive [WWD]
  • Nike quickens plans to ‘seamlessly connect social platforms to commerce’ [The Drum]
  • How artificial intelligence is powering e-commerce in India [TechinAsia]
  • Fashion apps continue the trend for mobile swiping [The Telegraph]
  • Six futuristic retail displays that will change your idea of ‘e-commerce’ [Time]
  • Luxury brands dip toes in e-commerce waters [WSJ]
  • Why the Internet of Things won’t be about the ‘things’ for retailers [Retail Dive]
  • The man who wants to turn our clothes into modular gadgets [Wired]
  • Meet Mona, the world’s smartest personal shopper [PSFK]
  • Why the Apple Watch is flopping [Co.Design]
  • 3D-printing has stagnated, says pioneering designer Francis Bitonti [Dezeen]
  • We did not expect Vogue’s native advertising to be this good [Brand Republic]
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film

Fashion names star in Apple Mac’s 30-years ad

 

Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen is one of several fashion creatives to star in a new ad from Apple, a spot filmed using a series of iPhones over the course of just one day.

1.24.12, as it’s called (for the day it was shot), is a celebration of 30 years of the Macintosh. When the Mac was introduced, it promised to put technology in the hands of the people, Apple says, launching “a generation of innovators who continue to change the world”.

Van Herpen is seen in her Amsterdam studio working on one of her elaborate creations at about 43 seconds in. While many fashion designers work on a Mac these days, she is one of a few who also turns her ideas into reality using a 3D printer.

“Iris van Herpen initially saw the computer as a strictly two-dimensional environment. For someone who often begins the creative process by sketching on a mannequin, that wouldn’t work. But when she discovered 3D printing, everything changed,” reads the write-up on the Apple website, where a timeline has been created documenting creativity for the past 30 years.

 

irisvanherpen

Van Herpen is included under the heading for 2014 on the site, but two further dates are also relevant to the fashion industry.

1996 is dedicated to Tinker Hatfield, who is the designer behind many of Nike’s most popular shoes. He said the Mac enabled him to experiment more freely in terms of different materials, contours and patterns, and to see all his designs instantly. “Apple gave us this amazing tool and a new way to do things. It was a little crazy, yet satisfying and liberating at the same time,” he is quoted.

The year 2000 is then focused on photographer Nick Knight, who created SHOWstudio.com, and in so doing, “changed how people saw fashion”. He pioneered fashion film, and was of course one of the very first to live stream a fashion week show. “I wanted to make fashion accessible to a broader audience. And I wanted to share more than static images,” he says.

Consumers are also invited to share information about when they first owned a Mac and how exactly they have used it, via an interactive portion of the 30 years microsite.

A short documentary about the Mac’s history has also been released, featuring Van Herpen, Hatfield and Knight, among others…

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film

NYC Ballet airs costume films live at Fall Gala

NYCB_olivier

The New York City Ballet put fashion at the centre of its Fall Gala tonight by showcasing three short documentary films about the designers it has collaborated with, live on stage.

Prabal Gurung, Iris van Herpen and Olivier Theyskens (pictured above) each designed custom costumes for three new ballets premiering at the event. Respectively they were “Capricious Maneuver” choreographed by Justin Peck, “Neverwhere” by Benjamin Millepied and “Spectral Evidence” by Angelin Preljocaj.

Films were created showing the designers discussing the concept and vision for their looks, providing a sneak peek at what they look like as they’re being developed, and even trialling the creations on the ballerinas to ensure they are suited to the movement they need. Van Herpen’s is all about hundreds of individual pieces of PVC plastic, Gurung’s complete with leather harnesses and Theyskens’ embellished with giant silicon scars.

Each spot (embedded below alongside some still shots) was aired ahead of its corresponding ballet via a giant screen on the stage – giving the traditional gala a bit more of a modern spin.

The ballet iself was attended by stars including Natalie Portman (in support of husband Benjamin Millepied) and NYCB’s chairperson Sarah Jessica Parker.

Choreographed by Justin Peck; costumes by Prabal Gurung; music by Lukas Foss

Choreographed by Benjamin Millepied; costumes by Iris Van Herpen; music by Nico Muhly

Choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj; costumes by Olivier Theyskens; music by John Cage

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