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business digital snippets e-commerce Retail social media sustainability technology

ICYMI: Virgil on arriving at Louis Vuitton, Amazon’s treasure truck, The North Face releases renewed apparel

Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh

A round-up of everything you might have missed in relevant fashion, retail and tech industry news over the past week.

TOP STORIES
  • Virgil Abloh on the movement that brought him to Louis Vuitton [HypeBeast]
  • Who’s that selling steaks, seafood and toys in a parking lot? It’s Amazon’s Treasure Truck [USAToday]
  • The North Face kicks off pilot program for renewed apparel [WWD]
  • Fashion got woke. But at what cost? [BoF]
  • The power of Kate Spade’s ‘colorful, bold, cheerful’ brand [AdAge]
TECHNOLOGY
  • Waymo announces 7 million miles of self-driving car testing, putting it far ahead of rivals [ArsTechnica]
SUSTAINABILITY
  • Circularity: Sustainable fashion’s holy grail or greenwashing? [BoF]
RETAIL & E-COMMERCE
  • Stella McCartney brings meditation to Galeries Lafayette [WWD]
  • Why 2018 is the year of modernization for Target [RetailDive]
  • Club Monaco turns to in-store pop-up shops to diversify its retail experience [Glossy]
  • Harvey Nichols partners with Hero to offer “Live Shopping” online [TheIndustry]
  • House of Fraser to close 31 stores [BBC]
  • It’s not retail that’s dying. It’s our imagination [BoF]
  • Rent the Runway extends logistics tools to luxury fashion brands [FastCompany]
  • A mall in China put in a traffic lane just for people staring at their phones [FastCompany]
MARKETING & SOCIAL MEDIA
  • Adidas and the World Cup: Mass appeal or awkward deal? [BoF]
  • Instagram’s new shopping bag icon adds e-commerce element to advertisers’ Stories [MarketingLand]
  • Welcome to China’s KOL clone factories [BoF]
BUSINESS
  • Decoding the Dries Van Noten x Puig deal [BoF]
  • The future of fashion hiring is fast, digital and diverse [WWD]
  • Revolve could be on the brink of an IPO [SourcingJournal]
Categories
Comment social media

Forget Instagram: what has happened to fashion week commentary on Twitter?

This post first appeared on Fashionista.com

Van-Noten-RF14-0930

Is it just me or has Twitter become much less inspiring during fashion week season? I say that as an avid user – both personally and profesionally. I peruse posts day to day, and particularly once the shows hit London, Milan and Paris, when I’m watching via livestream from New York. I scroll through my own feed, I consume via social dashboards attached to designers’ websites, and I go back and search using hashtags and brand names afterwards, too.

What I’ve always enjoyed is the live commentary that you gather from those in the front row, but there seems to have been very little of it for the past couple of seasons, and I for one really miss it. Not the tweets that tell me what show they’re waiting for, the fact the first model has appeared/the last model has walked out, or even what color they’re seeing. Those still exist, and I can gather all that from home.

No, what I really want back, is actual commentary. I want to hear from the editors –- the experts no less — about the 1930s theme emerging at Prada and the influence Miuccia drew from film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder, or the details of the new Bloomsbury-inspired, hand-painted florals at Burberry Prorsum. I want to know what is sashaying down that runway that, from my own 13-inch screen, I can’t quite see.

The images that are posted can be nice, of course, and on occasion insightful (if not blurry, but that’s another issue). But what happened to a wonderfully descriptive annotation along with it? Or better yet a real-time opinion, a review-on-the-spot even? Here are some of the highlights from the Lanvin show Thursday:

Lots of pictures naturally, but did you gather much about the line really? Navy, white and feathers. It’s a start.

Now it’s not that everyone has put their smartphones back in their handbags to focus on the clothes as they come out of course. So what’s going on?

First up, quite obviously: Instagram. During London Fashion Week there were a total of 266,767 mentions on Twitter, and 316,359 posts on Instagram, according to Bell Pottinger, a British public relations and marketing firm. So arguably, much more time is being spent there.

It goes without saying there’s huge benefit in that space of course. But when someone is at at home watching a livestream, or has access to high-res images in near real-time — not to mention backstage ones from the brand themselves — Instagram shots from the front row don’t necessarily offer all that much. They’re a nice-to-have, and for a feel of fashion week in general, a fantastic stream to follow. But for those really wanting to know about the collections themselves, there’s still a gap — an information gap.

The skill of an editor who has worked in the industry for 10 or more years is to be able to quickly deduce what a collection is about, to analyze its importance for trends, to bring contextual knowledge of its applicability to the commercial market and to offer a clear understanding of the technical side (i.e., garment construction and fabrications).

Portraying that over Twitter is no mean feat. I attempted it as a guest Tweeter on behalf of my employer, WGSN, for the @mbfashionweek account during New York at a number of shows and it’s entirely consuming.

But I don’t think the fact few editors or publications seem to be offering anything like this anymore comes down to just not having the time. With social media now reaching maturity, there’s inevitably becoming a greater push in terms of strategy for organizations and individuals alike on what to do and what not to do to achieve audience engagement.

So here’s my question: Is this lack of Twitter commentary as simple as editors just becoming more obsessed with Instagram? Or is there actually a direct decision being made not to give away too much there and then? (The knowledge of these men and women is a valuable commodity — why hand it out on a free platform, when you can rather store it up and post it on your own site for traffic generation later?)

Then again, maybe it’s just as simple as the fact we’re also all just a little bit over it. Or overwhelmed. Or lazy. Still, I’d like it back.

Categories
digital snippets film Uncategorized

Digital snippets: Selfridges, Karl Lagerfeld, Bergdorfs, Nike, Mr Porter, Gap

Some more great stories from around the web surrounding all things fashion and digital over the past week:

 

  • Selfridges launches The Film Project with Alexander McQueen (as above), Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Gareth Pugh, A.F. Vandervorst and Rick Owens [Karl is my Unkle]
  • Karl Lagerfeld launches new content-driven website [WWD]
  • Bergdorf Goodman partners with magazine app Zite to push brand-relevant lifestyle content [Marketwire]
  • Mr Porter launches global augmented reality fashion hunt [Mashable]
  • Nike showcasing ‘future of retail’ with pop-up Nike+ FuelStation in London [Creativity Online]
  • Gap launches new campaign integrating geo-fencing technology [PSFK]